Other places may have better soup dumplings—their skins thinner, the silky, shimmering liquid inside them more flavorful. Let’s concede that. But those other institutions do not have the treasure that ...

Kristie Hang is a born-and-raised Angeleno who has been covering the Los Angeles food scene for nearly 15 years. She was once known for double-fisting two large boba drinks daily in grad school — ...