About a mile from the Eritrean border in Zalambessa, Ethiopia, there's a small building made of corrugated metal. There's not much inside, except for some sleeping mats and clay pots for coffee. But ...

Almost everywhere you go in Zalambessa, a town on Ethiopia's border with Eritrea, there are reminders of war: buildings in rubble, walls riddled with bullet holes and a border still delineated by two ...